I'm writing this from the New Choice office in UB, its the only way I can get internet at the moment; because of the swine flu all of the internet cafes are closed since a lot of kids meet there to go online gaming en masse.
Also when I got back on Wednesday I got the news that the school is closed for another 2 weeks, so I'm gonna have to get some alternate work. An orphanage is my most likely bet or I could try and volunteer for the English- Mongolian newspaper that I read.
The flu is buggering up the whole city, bars and restaurants are closing early, most of the local establishments where I am are closed, its a pain but its mostly a blow for the educational system, children are being deprived of at least a month of study (they're not complaining, obviously, but its not doing them any favors).
Anyway, on the 1st I went into the countryside for a 4 day trip, so I'll try and give you a flavor of that.
I was surprised that morning by a timely pick-up, only 20 minutes later than expected. Chimge's friend who was going to be my translator knocked on the door. Her name is pronounced "Sim-bi-you", I don't know how to spell it correctly so I'll go with "Simbiu".
The driver "Gana" was waiting with a basic looking van, but it turned out to be very speedy compared to most countryside traffic and managed just fine off road.
The traffic in the city wasn't too bad at that time (between 11 and 12) so we made it out of the city in good time.
The only way to describe the Mongolian countryside is 'endless'. It looks barren at this time of year and beautiful and goes on forever, on the flat the road stretches straight in front of you away into the horizon.
There was a sprinkling of snow on the ground from the previous day but the road was in good condition (ice-wise, it's not in good condition road-wise; full of pot holes and uneven surfaces).
There was one stop outside the city for a toilet break in a shed with a long drop between the floor boards, doorless and thoughtfully facing the road. There was a long section of the road that was closed off so we had to use a bumpy dirt road that Gana navigated safely but at an alarming speed.
Just past 3pm we arrived at a small collection of huts, houses and ghers all fenced off from each other looking like a small town. The family we're staying with are just within the walls; a large yard with two ghers in one corner and a toilet in the other, its another shed with a long drop and no door, but slightly more hazardous as there are only three boards on which to balance and which creak alarmingly when they take your weight, with large gaps between them. You have to hold onto the edge of the wall, put one foot on the nearest plank and spin to get your other foot on the second plank. This is very difficult in the dark when you've forgotten your torch and your in a hurry because its bloody freezing.
I found on the second day that the toilet has another disadvantage, while I was using it, the fence 2 meters in front of me turns out to be a gate in disguise and a Mongolian walks through much to my embarrassment, but thankfully I didn't lose my balance in my surprise.
The gher is spacious and the family were very welcoming and sat us down with a bowl of milk tea, they didn't observe any of the traditions and niceties I'd memorized. I've seen backs to the shrine, sitting wherever you want, leaning on the central supports.... although I'm a bit relieved they're more relaxed then I expected. The same is true of other families I visited.
It's a young family, a man "Tomrou" and his wife "Otou" and their son "Bagi" who must only be around 5 or 6 years old. Their niece (who's name I never managed to pick up) is staying with them, she is a little older than Bagi.
The small television set is tuned into the judo world champs (being held in UB) the screen kept on collapsing the picture so after some discussion the television in taken apart by Gana and Tomrou to reveal some incredibly dirty and dusty workings. After some tampering it is put back together; the screen quality is even worse.
Then we were served the Mongolian equivalent of stovies (with noodles) which was very tasty and more milk tea.
Tomrou, Gana and Simbiu tried to teach me a card game simply called 'Cards'. With limited english explanation it was very hard to understand what was going on but after a few hours I got the gist of it.
Then Gana and Bagi played checkers with a chess board, followed by me being utterly thrashed twice by Gana in chess (using sheep anklebones to replace the missing pieces).
The TV is then turned back on for the wrestling and we drink some interesting sweet soup. The only thing I can liken it to is the aftertaste you get after you throw up. I managed my whole bowl and I think I managed to hide the fact it was utterly gross.
The Mongolians seem to have a pretty open house, random folk just wander in and out, have a bit of a chat, help themselves to some milk tea, watch the TV.
I ended up getting to bed around 11:30. We played endless games of Cards then Otou washes the floor, takes the covers off the three beds and spreads them on the floor. Gana and the kids are on the floor, Otou and Tomrou are on the bed at the back of the gher and Simbiu and myself are given a bed each to throw our sleeping bags on. My orange 'glacier' bag was too warm for the gher but very comfortable. The lights went on and off in the early hours so I didn't get much sleep.
I got a two minute warning from Simbiu at around 11am that we were leaving for Kharakorum.
We are joined in the van by Tomrou and some random old guy who chattered happily in Mongolian all the way there, Simbiu pointing out places of interest to me.
We arrive at a bit past 12. I went with Simbiu to the Erdene Zuu, a former Buddhist monastery, still with some practicing llamas.
I realize in the departing rush I have left my money back in the gher so I had to rely on Simbiu to pay my standard entry fee of 3500T, furious at myself as I wanted to pay the more expensive fee that would allow me to take photographs.
A guide, a young girl with good, clear english takes us round a very informative and interesting tour of the various shrines and temples.
The monastery was built upon the ruins of Kharakorum City, the capital of the Mongol Empire founded in the 13th century by Chinguis Khan, 100 years after its destruction. It is surrounded by walls that are 400 meters long on each side because the walls of Kharakorum City were 4km long and it is built from the bricks of the ruined city.
In the monastery there are mostly shrines to Buddha's of various things and their protector gods. I was most interested in the protector gods as I've seen them in dances and statues and they look utterly evil so I was confused as to their purpose but no one could tell me what they really were.
It turns out they are good. There was an interesting story about the only female protector god: in ancient times there was a great evil in the land. The male protector gods were sent to destroy it but failed, so the female god 'used her mind' as the guide described it, and ended up marrying the evil and having his kid. Then she killed him and her child as it was evil too.
In her statue shes riding her mule that looks pretty done in, she's all wild staring eyes and fangs and claws and downright hideous. She sits on her dead evil husband who is hung across her saddle and looks pretty normal (why did he marry her?!) and her dead evil baby is in her mouth.
The guide also explained why there are horrific paintings of people being torn apart on the ceilings of all the Buddhist monasteries I've visited; turns out these are depicting a Sky Burial. In the past, Mongolians laid their dead on the tops of mountains to be eaten by birds and wolves, apparently a good man would be devoured faster.
When the guide left us we went to another temple where the llamas were chanting and praying. That day was a special day as it was the 15th day of the month on the lunar calendar, or something like that.
They were sitting in rows on either side of the temple facing inwards in orange robes and red sashes, reading from books or scrolls, their chanting was powerful and seemed to be harmonized. Normal folk were praying around the edges and the walls were decorated with altars to different deities. I desperately wanted to get my camera out but I was too much of a coward, I didn't want to disturb them and I was already getting some unfriendly stares from just being foreign and being there.
On the way to the exit I felt better by taking some sneaky 'unauthorized' shots of the buildings.
When the van showed up we drove into the nearby town to purchase some airaig from the backroom of some food establishment where an old lady filled up several coke bottles for us (I didn't buy any, its not as bad as all the horror stories but I'd rather not drink it all the same). There was a market of sorts and I saw a collection of pool tables in the freezing air that people seemed to be buying go's on.
We drove to an impressive monument up on the hill. I snapped some photos and Simbiu explained it was for but I guess i didn't listen as the freezing winds had locked my hands blue and rigid around my camera in seconds- utter agony. Then to another nearby shrine, I got the gist that women wanting children came here to pray for one.
About half way back to the gher we veered of the road and drove along a dirt track next to a small forest (bare for the winter) for maybe a km or so until we came to a collection of three ghers with two camels and a horse tied outside (I never get any explanations for these side trips so its very exciting. I could of asked but I kinda liked just waiting and seeing where we'd end up next).
The resident family invited us in for a small cooked meal and milk tea before driving off again with another passenger, a lady in a beautiful black deel with gold designs.
We veered off the road twice more to visit what looked like a tourist gher camp and to speak to some folk in a truck, again not sure why.
That evening the children taught me how to play ankle bone games. The first game started off by gathering as many bones as possible in your hands and arms then scatter them. The aim is to knock the matching bones into each other without hitting any non-matching ones (they fall into four different positions- sheep, goat, horse, camel) if you manage this you keep one of the bones, if you miss or hit a non-match your turn is over and the next person scoops up and throws the bones again. When the number of bones being played decreases, if one person gains them all then everyone (including the current player) has to throw in two bones to keep the game going. If you run out of bones then your out of the game and the last person with all the bones is the winner.
Another game is 'Horse Racing': all the bones are lined up in the 'horse' position and a long row, the players have an ankle bone each at the start of the line and by throwing dice they progress along the line, the first one to reach the end of the line wins. Alternately you can place the bones in the 'camel' position then it is 'Camel Racing'. Sheep and goat racing is not so popular.
I will try and finish this tomorrow as its a trek home and I don't want to do it in the dark. The office might not be open but I've heard rumors from other travelers about a free computer in a posh mall, so I'll investigate.
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Oh Eve, what can I say!! You'll now be able to go to the loo in the High Street with no shame!!
ReplyDeleteDon't think you'll be replacing your computer with 'Horse Racing' but 'ankle bones' sounds ok. I'll get on to the butcher to start saving them. Mum