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Thursday, 1 October 2009

a little more detail...

I thought I should write about some little things of interest in Mongolia, mainly Ulaan Baatar.
I think one of the things that characterises UB very well is Seoul Street. This is pretty much the highstreet, the entire road (maybe over a km long) was relaid in a matter of weeks (damn good workers over here), work was just finishing off when I arrived. One of the things that struck me was that they had put alot of money and effort into rebuilding this road and had royally screwed up the congestion for weeks (seriously, the entire city was 'chock-a-block' to quote Michael MacIntyre) but what hadn't they done? Drainage. The day after one section of road was complete, the road was flooded around the State Department building, very soggy feet for anyone who tried to traverse the street.
The next thing is traffic. Pedestrian crossings are everywhere but they are kind of irrelevant in the eyes of the drivers so crossing the road is an exercise in nerves. If your quick on your feet you should be able to dodge the cars and buses as they do slow slightly to give us foriegners a fighting chance (so sporting of them) but they usually stop for the locals so the best strategy is to attach yourself to groups of Mongolians while navigating roads (also they're more practised at it so their road-crossing strategys are more reliable). All to often however I've found myself stranded in the middle of a fast main road, heavy traffic on all sides.
The drivers are also the most impatient in the world. If a car slows or halts momentarily they just love to lay on their horns. They tend to ignore each other until the last possible moment as well, when Sete was driving me and Katia back from dinner the other night, there was a huge jam at one of the main junctions, with cars facing in every possible direction. They also don't indicate, so for someone like me who automatically expects them to observe this basic rule of the road things can get pretty hairy.
I've only been on a bus once (with a Mongolian who knew where they were going). It was quite fun though uncomfortable, no seats so you get thrown from side to side with extreme violence.
I prefer walking though as the buses are numerous and the system confusing.
Also on the streets, the pavements hold another host of hazzards: loose stones, huge puddles, small ponds, rubble. But the worst bit are the holes, massive manhole type things, usually they're covered but sometimes there is just a huge gap in the pavement with a six-seven foot drop, I had a close call with one of those late one night :S. I had a class earlier this week (8th grade I think) and we were discussing our 'Unforgetable Day' one boy stood up giggling uncontrollably and told the tale how one of his classmates was running for the bus and simply disapeared straight down one of these holes. The poor boy was so embarrassed as his friend happily embellished on how he was screaming for help while everyone else had a good laugh at his expense; I asked the speaker "Did you help?" "Not really, I was laughing to much".
And of course the people, they are usually not too fond of tourists and so you get some 'Looks' on the street. But all the ones I've got to know (although they are all aware of my volunteer status) are extremely open and friendly, their hospitality is fantastic and despite all the things you hear about their rigid traditions they are pretty difficult to offend.
They have their funny little ways. If you bump into someone on the street, it is customary to touch (well grab) the person you collided with on the hand or arm. As Ann put "the first few times it happens, it feel like you're being mugged".
Another funny little way of theirs is "no bag must touch the ground" - i think its bad luck of something. But whenever you forget, someone almost immediately scoops your bag up and places it up and away from the possible evils of the floor.
Also I was invited to a pub with three of the language teachers and we spoke on pretty much every subject, I discovered that Mongolian mothers are too shy to talk to their daughters on certain matters. Well that explained why I've been getting the "where do babies come from" questions from Zula, that I've been oh so skillfully avoiding. Ach! Not really my place, dear.
They also love singing, in class they often pester me to sing and sometimes theres no getting out of it. Although it makes for a good lesson as they love to learn new songs, the other day I walked into an 11th grade class and one of the boys was plugged into his stereo, eyes closed unashamedly singing his heart out at the top of his voice. Bless.
The structure of the school day is also quite bizzare; 40 minute lessons, break and lunch are either 5 minutes or 10 minutes so the kids just have enough time to dash down to the tuck shop and then munch through their next lesson. On Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays there are full days but on Wednesdays and Thursdays (my favourite week days) there are only half days. On a full day the teachers can be working as late as 6:45! Luckily all my lessons finish around four or five.

Also my phone number (and this will work): 00976 95931012

Thats all for now.

1 comment:

  1. If you need an internet, there's a nice cafe with free wi-fi in the Seoul street, called Caffe Ti-amo. They also offer Italian coffee and gelato. Here's the map:
    http://tiamo.delhii.net/contacts/

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